Nov 29, 2017 The Apple Mac ‘hacker’ can change the settings of the device, install any and all types of apps and programs, add and remove other users, and more.
The Mission
There has been much controversy on removing the firmware lock on a MBP, MBA, or similar Mac’s. The MBA is a bit more complicated without a specialty tool to interface with a header on the board. We use to have to remove the board, scratch back traces, and solder directly to them which can be seen in EX-1.1. This is just short of replacing the entire chip, which is what we are all trying to avoid right? I also have a project I have been forking on called the iFLRT (Firmware Lock Removal Tool) that can be found HERE. Donate what you can to keep my development process alive, every little red cent helps.
First you need to understand what the firmware lock is and how removing it will affect you. Then maybe you will be able to decide if this procedure is for you. In most cases a MBP has been purchased from a third party who may have stolen it or simply forgotten to remove their iCloud account. In this case the symptoms would be a four digit pin lock when the OS loads. When you try to do a re-install you are met with a lock screen shown in EX-1. This is the result of the Mac being most definitely locked from the cloud. There are two options from this point which are explained below.
EX-1
Aug 22, 2016 Check whether any account is created on Mac without your permission. If your mac is hacked there are additional accounts created by hackers. Step 7: In this last step, check whether an account is misused by any hacker. Type gave the following command line on Terminal. Hit 'Enter' now you can see each account on Mac last login date. Jun 10, 2016 How to avoid or remove Mac Defender malware in Mac OS X v10.6 or earlier Learn how to avoid or remove Mac Defender malware in Mac OS X v10.6 or earlier. A phishing scam has targeted Mac users by redirecting them from legitimate websites to fake websites which tell them that their computer is infected with a virus. Jul 09, 2020 Mac Pro, Mac mini, and iMac. First, shut down your Mac and unplug the power cord along with other connected devices. Then use a damp, soft, lint-free cloth to clean the computer's exterior. Avoid getting moisture in any openings. Don't spray liquid directly on the computer.
EX-1.1
NOTE: If you have a 2010 model MBP or earlier all you have to do is change the amount of RAM in your MBP and clear the PRAM. This is all you have to do to get past OS lock. But you will still have a firmware lock as far as I know as in many cases this has happened. There have been occasions where the firmware lock has also been removed but I cannot contest to any exact models. Remember to set the Mac up like new and register the Mac with a new iCloud account to avoid any future lock-downs.
Option A: You can assume that a firmware lock was never set and brute force the firmware lock with a HID device such as a Teensy. This operation can take quite a while because it has to go through 10,000 iterations of possible pass-phrases in the worst case scenario. This will ONLY work if it was set by the iCloud!
Option B: You can assume that a firmware lock was indeed implicated when the MBP was set up and that the brute force method will not work. This can save you time but requires you to have a SPI programmer at hand such as the Bus Pirate or in this case a Raspberry Pi.
In A Nutshell
I won’t waste time on the brute force method as I believe it isn't relevant in most cases. I will focus on the process of flashing the EFI chip that is usually easily accessible by removing the Macs’s back-plate, either by a small 15X2 header, 17X2 header, or the 8 pin SOIC chip itself. You can see an image of the SOIC8 chip in EX-2 and the header in EX-2.1. The process is simple but requires a bit of knowledge in micro controllers. I will use the easiest and cheapest route that I know. The process goes briefly like this:
EX-2
EX-2.1
Step 1 – Buy a SPI programmer such as the Raspberry Pi and a clip to interface with the chip. You can find the Pi on eBay, doesn't matter what model and you can find the Pomona SOIC8 clip there as well, usually with the female-to-female wires included. If you have a MBA then you can contact me about purchasing a clip for the header.
Step 2 - Read the chip three times and verify MD5 check-sum to ensure you have a good backup if things go wrong.
Step 3 – Make a copy of the dump and open it in a hex editor. I use Notepad ++.
Step 4 - Search for “$SVS” in the dump and you should find 2 instances. The first instance is what you will need to clear out making sure to keep the file length the same. It is safe to replace it with an empty value such as “ÿ”. The string including the $SVS should be replaced, you can copy and paste a portion of the string below if needed. each 'ÿ' is 2 bits and 8 bits make a byte So keep that in mind when you replace the string. The file size has to be exactly the same size as the chip or it will return an error.
This is an example of what to replace in a hex editor.
Step 4.1 – Get a clean dump that is not firmware locked from the community making sure you use the correct EMC and processor architecture. Make absolutely sure it is the same size as your original dump which is usually 2, 4, or 8 MB. If you go this route then you will need to replace the serial of the donated dump with your own serial in order to not register over their Mac. You can do this my simply searching for 'override-version' and on that same line there will be an 11 to 12 digit serial number that you will replace with your own. I also have a repository found HERE which you can use to search for your EMC number and I may have a clean dump.
Step 5 – Hook your programmer up to the chip, erase the chip, write the new dump and verify it.
Step 6 – Remove the clip and turn your Mac over to turn it on and test. You will immediately use the hot-keys to get to single user mode to test.
Step 7 – If you do not get to SU mode or the Mac does not boot right you will need to erase the chip and write the old dump back to it. You then can exhaust other options.
Step 7.1 – If you do get to SU mode turn the Mac back off and use the hot-keys to clear the PRAM. This will get rid of the 4 digit lock at OS load. Or you can simply re-install at this point. Remember to register the Mac to a new iCloud account to avoid future lock downs.
NOTE: Here are a few things worth mentioning..
- Make sure your chip is supported in Flashrom which is the program you will be using to talk to the chip.
- You need to make sure the clip makes a solid connection to avoid misreads.
- You need to verify your chips datasheet to correctly identify the pin-out to the SPI programmer.
- The wires connecting the clip to the SPI programmer need not be any longer than 8 cm.
- The battery may need to be connected due to voltage drop in special cases (RARE).
- The power cable should be removed from the Mac during the entire process, up until boot time testing.
- Always make sure to back up your original dump and verify the write.
- Optionally you can wire in resistors between the SPI programmer and the clip on the 3.3v pins.
That is the entire process in a nutshell. Now I will explain how you can do this in as much detail as possible. The first thing that you will need to do is pick up your entire inventory before you begin. After that lay everything out and do some testing. Make sure your chip is supported having the datasheet and any diagrams available. I also suggest after you get the clip connected to all the wires you check for continuity from the clips pins to the end of the F-F wires on each pin.
Down And Dirty
NOTE:Read this guide in its entirety before you attempt to do anything to your Mac; Read it twice if you have to. I would also like to take this time to tell you that I am not responsible for any damages to your personal property or your physical/mental wellness if the guide is used. There is no guarantee, implied or expressed, in this procedure. You are following this guide knowingly and accept that damaging your property may be the outcome. Although I do not for see that being the case as I have tested this method many times. With that being said, let’s get started.
This is the list of things you will need in order to successfully and easily fix your MBP:
- Raspberry Pi (Doesn't matter what version) with power supply and an SD card with Rasbian installed.
- 8 Pin Pomona SOIC clip or my EFI Easy Flash clip.
- 8 Female-to-Female wires.
- Flashrom.
- Your chip's datasheet (To verify the chips pin-out and voltage requirements).
Now, I am going to assume that you at least have some experience in Linux and basic troubleshooting skills. You will run into problems and they are not all going to be the same as everyone else’s problems. So critical thinking is also required although I have not added it to the list. When you have your Raspberry Pi all set up and Raspian is booted up you will need to set it up for the first time. if you have already set it up go to the terminal and type:
sudo raspi-config
While in this configuration screen make sure to turn SPI on under Advanced. You may also turn on SSH if needed.
Then you will need to do an update by typing:
sudo apt-get update
Followed by an upgrade:
sudo apt-get upgrade
Hacking iphone with mac address. Optionally doing a distrobution upgrade:
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
Now we have to install a few libraries that Flashrom relies on:
sudo apt-get install pciutils
sudo apt-get install libftdi-dev
sudo apt-get install libusb-dev
sudo apt-get install libpci-dev
Then you need to download the latest flashrom version:
sudo git clone https://github.com/stefanct/flashrom.git
It will be downloaded into a folder called 'flashrom' so change directory into the folder:
cd flashrom
And make it:
sudo make
Then install it:
![Avoid Avoid](/uploads/1/2/6/8/126877916/756513069.jpg)
sudo make install
Now we need to modify the blacklist by commenting out the SPI entry if it exists:
Sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf
You will need to put “#” in front of the line that reads blacklist spi-bcm2708 effectively commenting it from the configuration file. If there is nothing in the file don't worry about it, that means SPI is not blacklisted. You can then save by hitting CTL+X, Y, and ENTER. You will then need to hook the wires up to the Pi and to the clip according to the diagrams below and your chip's datasheet. In MOST cases it will be just like what you see below.
The actual pinout for most 25 series chips depicted above is as follows for those of you who need a more definitive answer:
- Pin 1 of the chip (marked with a small dot) which is CS (Chip Select) goes to pin 24 on the Raspberry Pi.
- Pin 2 of the chip which is MISO (Master Oin Slave Out) goes to pin 21 on the Raspberry Pi.
- Pin 3 of the chip which is WP (Write Protect) goes to pin 17 on the Raspberry Pi. (Usually Not Needed)
- Pin 4 of the chip which is GND (Ground) goes to pin 25 on the Raspberry Pi.
- Pin 6 of the chip which is MOSI (Master Out Slave In) goes to pin 19 on the Raspberry Pi.
- Pin 7 of the chip which is HOLD (Hold) goes to pin 17 in the Raspberry Pi. (Usually Not Needed)
- Pin 8 of the chip which is VCC (Positive Supply Voltage) goes to pin 17 on the Raspberry Pi (3.3v)
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Connect the wires on the clip to the Raspberry Pi making sure it is turned off following the diagram above. The GPIO pin that is closest to the corner of the Raspberry Pi is pin 2, keep that in mind or read the manual. After you are all connected you will place the clip on the chip snugly and turn the Pi on. Go to your working directory and run the following commands using some discretion.
**Start of the Flashrom process**
Get to the help page:
sudo flashrom --help
List the supported chips:
sudo flashrom –L
Read the flash chip by using the below command three times:
sudo flashrom –r ~/efi/read1.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0
Erase the chip after you have verified all three reads have a matching MD5 hash:
sudo flashrom -E -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0
Using the methods explained above either modify or get a clean dump making sure it is the same size as the original ROM and write it to the chip:
sudo flashrom -w ~/efi/new.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0
Verify the chips contents with the file that you just wrote to ensure its integrity:
sudo flashrom -v ~/efi/bnew.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0
If you have not run into any problems you will have a freshly flashed chip. If you did run into issue, use the forum here to start a thread and we will help you troubleshoot your error messages. The reason I always use the –V command is to ensure a verbose output. At this point shut your Pi down and then remove the clip. You will then replace your power supply to the Mac and then turn it on using hot-keys to try and get to SU mode. If you get to SU mode you will shut back down and use the hot-keys to clear PRAM and reinstall setting the Mac up as a new machine. Make sure to register it with a newly created or existing iCloud account to prevent further incidents. If you did not get to SU mode you will need to erase your chip and try again.
That’s it folks, this is the long awaited guide that has more than enough information to get you through the process. It is specifically designed to save you money in the recovery of your Mac and to seamlessly work through any prior issues you may have had using Flashrom with a windows PC. If this guide has helped you please think about the years of work I have spent making this possible for you and donate to my iFLRT project to make it even easier for others. Or you can donate to me by using the slider on the edge of the left hand side of the page to donate to my personal PayPal account. Good luck to you all and Happy Hunting…
View the discussion thread.
Apple products are made with a variety of materials, and each material might have specific cleaning requirements. To get started, here are some tips that apply to all products:
- Use only a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid abrasive cloths, towels, paper towels, or similar items.
- Avoid excessive wiping, which might cause damage.
- Unplug all external power sources, devices, and cables.
- Keep liquids away from the product, unless otherwise noted for specific products.
- Don't get moisture into any openings.
- Don't use aerosol sprays, bleaches, or abrasives.
- Don't spray cleaners directly onto the item.
Is it OK to use a disinfectant on my Apple product?
Using a 70 percent isopropyl alcohol wipe or Clorox Disinfecting Wipes, you may gently wipe the hard, nonporous surfaces of your Apple product, such as the display, keyboard, or other exterior surfaces. Don't use bleach. Avoid getting moisture in any opening, and don't submerge your Apple product in any cleaning agents. Don't use on fabric or leather surfaces.
Using a 70 percent isopropyl alcohol wipe or Clorox Disinfecting Wipes, you may gently wipe the hard, nonporous surfaces of your Apple product, such as the display, keyboard, or other exterior surfaces. Don't use bleach. Avoid getting moisture in any opening, and don't submerge your Apple product in any cleaning agents. Don't use on fabric or leather surfaces.
If liquid makes its way inside your Apple product, get help from an Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Retail Store as soon as possible. Liquid damage isn't covered under the Apple product warranty or AppleCare Protection Plans, but you may have rights under consumer law. If you plan to visit an Apple Retail store, make a reservation at the Genius Bar (available only in some countries and regions).
For more detailed instructions, select your Apple product:
Notebook computers
Learn how to clean your Mac notebook computer.
MacBook, MacBook Pro, and MacBook Air
When cleaning the outside of your MacBook, MacBook Pro, or MacBook Air, first shut down your computer and unplug the power adapter. Then use a damp, soft, lint-free cloth to clean the computer's exterior. Avoid getting moisture in any openings. Do not spray liquid directly on the computer. Don't use aerosol sprays, solvents, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide that might damage the finish.
![Apple Mac Air Avoid Hacker Apple Mac Air Avoid Hacker](/uploads/1/2/6/8/126877916/147067412.png)
To clean the screen on your MacBook, MacBook Pro, or MacBook Air, first shut down the computer and unplug the power adapter. Dampen a soft, lint-free cloth with water only, then use it to clean the computer's screen.
MacBook Pro models from 2016 and later with Touch Bar and Touch ID: Clean the Touch Bar and Touch ID (power button) on these computers the same way you would clean the display. Shut down your Mac and unplug the power adapter. Dampen a soft, lint-free cloth with water only, then use it to clean the Touch Bar and Touch ID.
MacBook (13-inch, Late 2009) and MacBook (13-inch, Mid 2010): The bottom case of these computers uses a soft nonslip material. Use a 3M Gray Microfiber or soft dye-free, lint-free cloth to clean the bottom case.
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Desktop computers
Learn how to clean your Mac desktop computer.
Mac Pro, Mac mini, and iMac
First, shut down your Mac and unplug the power cord along with other connected devices. Then use a damp, soft, lint-free cloth to clean the computer's exterior. Avoid getting moisture in any openings. Don't spray liquid directly on the computer. Don't use aerosol sprays, solvents, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide that might damage the finish.
To clean the display on your iMac, dampen the cloth that came with your iMac—or another clean, soft, lint-free cloth—with water only, and then wipe the screen.
Don't clean the screen of your iMac with a cleaner containing acetone. Use a cleaner intended for use with a screen or display. Never spray cleaner directly on the screen. It might drip inside the display and cause damage.
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Displays
To get help with Apple Pro Display XDR, learn how to clean your Pro Display XDR. The following guidelines are for cleaning the Apple Thunderbolt Display and previous Apple displays.
First, disconnect the display from power, from its connection to a computer, and from any external devices. Then use the cloth that came with your display or another soft, dry cloth to wipe dust from the screen.
If additional cleaning of the display panel or case is required, use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean the display.
Don't clean the screen of your display with a cleaner containing acetone. Use a cleaner intended for use with a screen or display. Never spray cleaner directly on the screen. It might drip inside the display and cause damage.
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Peripherals
Apple wireless or USB keyboards, mice, and trackpads
First, power off the device. If your device uses removable batteries, remove the batteries. (If your device is wired, simply unplug it from your computer.)
Next, clean the outside of your device with a lint-free cloth lightly moistened with water. Don't get moisture in any openings or use aerosol sprays, solvents, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide.
If your Magic Mouse or Magic Mouse 2 isn’t tracking properly, there might be a hair or other debris on the sensor lens. Turn the mouse over and inspect the sensor window using a bright light. If you see debris, use compressed air to gently clean the sensor window.
iPhone cases
iPhone case—silicone
To clean your silicone iPhone case, remove your iPhone from the case. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth to wipe the outside and the inside of the iPhone case. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean the iPhone case.
iPhone case—leather
The leather iPhone case is made from natural leather. Its appearance will change as you use it. It might acquire a patina and might change color due to the oils from your skin and direct sunlight, further enhancing the natural look.
Cleaning the leather might affect its color. If you choose to clean this case, first remove it from your iPhone. Use a clean cloth with warm water and mild hand soap to gently clean the iPhone case. You can also use a mild cleaner along with a dry clean cloth. Leather cleaners and conditioners can change the color of leather.
Keep your iPhone case away from prolonged intense sunlight, heat, and humidity. Exposure to water, oil, makeup, and dyed materials (such as denim) can stain tanned leathers.
iPhone case—clear
To clean your clear iPhone case, remove your iPhone from the case. Use a soft, dry, lint-free cloth to wipe the outside and inside of the case. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean the case.
iPhone Smart Battery Case
To clean your Smart Battery Case, remove your iPhone from the case. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth to wipe the outside of the case. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean the case.
When cleaning the internal Lightning connector, use a soft, dry, lint-free cloth, and don’t use liquids or cleaning products.
Learn how to clean your iPhone.
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iPad accessories
Apple Pencil
To clean your Apple Pencil, use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. With the damp cloth, wipe your Apple Pencil from the tip end—but not the tip itself—toward the other end of your Apple Pencil. Don’t allow moisture to get inside the seam between the tip and the body of your Apple Pencil.
Magic Keyboard for iPad
When cleaning the outside of your Magic Keyboard, first disconnect the iPad and unplug the USB-C cable if connected. Then use a slightly damp, soft, lint-free cloth to clean the exterior. Avoid getting moisture in any openings. Don't spray liquid directly on the keyboard. Don't use aerosol sprays, solvents, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide that might damage the finish.
iPad Smart Keyboard, Smart Keyboard Folio, Smart Cover, and Smart Case—polyurethane
To clean your polyurethane Smart Keyboard, Smart Keyboard Folio, Smart Cover, or Smart Case, first remove it from the iPad. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Wipe the front and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean this product.
Change password on mac computer. iPad Smart Cover and Smart Case—leather
The iPad leather cover/case is made from natural leather. Its appearance will change as you use it. It might acquire a patina and might change color due to the oils from your skin and direct sunlight, further enhancing the natural look.
Cleaning the leather might affect its color. If you choose to clean the leather, first remove the cover/case from your iPad. Use a clean cloth with warm water and mild hand soap to gently clean the leather. Wipe the outside and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove any dirt. You can also use a mild cleaner along with a dry clean cloth. Mild cleaners or conditioners might help remove some stains but might also change the color of the leather.
Keep your iPad leather cover/case away from prolonged intense sunlight, heat, and humidity. Exposure to water, oil, makeup, and dyed materials (such as denim) can stain tanned leathers.
iPad Silicone Case
To clean your iPad Silicone Case, remove your iPad from the case. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth to wipe the outside and the inside of the case. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean the iPad case.
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iPad
Handle your iPad with care to maintain its appearance. If you're concerned about scratching or abrasion, you can use one of the many cases sold separately. To clean iPad, unplug all cables and turn off iPad (press and hold the Sleep/Wake button, and then slide the onscreen slider). Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean iPad. iPad has an oleophobic coating on the screen; simply wipe iPad's screen with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove oil left by your hands. The ability of this coating to repel oil will diminish over time with normal usage, and rubbing the screen with an abrasive material will further diminish its effect and might scratch your screen.
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iPod
iPod touch
To clean iPod touch, unplug all cables and turn off iPod touch (press and hold the Sleep/Wake button, and then slide the onscreen slider). Then use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean iPod touch.
iPod classic
To clean iPod classic, unplug all cables, turn iPod classic off, and slide the Hold switch to HOLD. Then use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean iPod classic.
iPod nano
To clean iPod nano, unplug all cables, turn iPod nano off, and slide the Hold switch to HOLD. Then use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean iPod nano.
On iPod nano 6th generation, which has no hold switch, you need to press only the Sleep/Wake button to turn the device off before cleaning.
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iPod shuffle
To clean iPod shuffle, unplug all cables, turn it off (slide the switch to OFF), and use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean iPod shuffle.
iPod mini
To clean iPod mini, unplug all cables, turn iPod mini off, and slide the Hold switch to HOLD. Then use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don't use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean iPod mini.
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Learn more
Apple Mac Air Avoid Hackers
- Learn how to disinfect the Apple internal or external keyboard, trackpad, and mouse.
- For more information on cleaning, handling, and working with your Apple Product, please refer to the User Guide that came with your product or download a copy.